The roots of Palha de Abrantes can be traced back to the 18th century, when Catholic nuns at the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Graça in Abrantes left an indelible mark on the culinary scene. Founded in 1566 by King Sebastian of Portugal and entrusted to the Order of Saint Clare, this serene sanctuary became a haven for devotion, prayer, and the art of confectionery. Within the convent walls, the nuns carefully crafted cakes and pastries using treasured ingredients such as sugar, eggs, almonds, and aromatic spices. It was during this time that the recipe for Palha de Abrantes came into existence, inspired by other conventual sweets that featured egg yolks and threads, each with their own unique characteristics.
The nuns' inclusion of ground almonds in the paste added a distinct flavor and texture to Palha de Abrantes, setting it apart from its counterparts. The etymology of the name "palha" (straw) remains a subject of speculation, with some suggesting it stems from the resemblance between the delicate egg threads and straw, while others believe it harkens back to the nuns' use of straw baskets to transport their delectable creations to the market.
For generations, the recipe for Palha de Abrantes remained a well-guarded secret, safeguarded within the convent's sacred walls. However, in 1834, the Liberal Revolution marked a significant turning point in Portuguese history, leading to the dissolution of religious orders and the closure of numerous convents. The surviving nuns faced the arduous task of adapting to a changing world and finding ways to sustain themselves.
The creation of Palha de Abrantes requires only a handful of ingredients: sugar, water, eggs, and almonds. The process begins by separating the eggs into yolks and whites. The yolks are gently cooked with sugar and water over low heat, transforming into a luscious, thick paste. Ground almonds and a touch of lemon zest are then added, infusing the mixture with delightful flavors and aromas. The paste is meticulously shaped into small balls or ovals, each one brimming with the promise of indulgence.
The delicate strands of egg threads that adorn Palha de Abrantes are crafted by whipping the egg whites with sugar until they form stiff peaks. These ethereal strands are then carefully passed through a funnel or a colander with small holes, cascading into a pot of boiling sugar syrup. As they encounter the hot liquid, they quickly solidify, emerging as thin, glistening strands that are removed from the syrup and gently drained on a wire rack.
The dessert comes together as a symphony of flavors and textures. Circular shapes are cut from wafer paper using a cookie cutter or a glass, serving as the foundation for each individual Palha de Abrantes. A ball or oval of almond paste is delicately placed upon the wafer paper, slightly flattened to ensure the layers meld harmoniously. The crowning glory comes in the form of the intricate egg threads, which elegantly enrobe the almond paste, completely enveloping it in a delicate web of texture and taste. The dessert is then placed in a very hot oven for a few minutes, allowing the egg threads to take on a light golden hue, adding a delightful crunch to the creation.
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This cherished dessert is also an emblem of celebration and joy. Traditionally enjoyed during festive occasions such as Christmas Eve dinners, New Year's Eve celebrations, Easter feasts, birthdays, and anniversaries, Palha de Abrantes has become intertwined with moments of jubilation and togetherness. Yet, it is not reserved solely for special events — Portuguese families and friends relish the opportunity to savor Palha de Abrantes as an everyday indulgence, recognizing the sweetness and pleasure it brings to their lives.
A single bite of Palha de Abrantes transports the senses to a realm of happiness and satisfaction. Its rich and creamy texture delights the palate, while the subtle sweetness of the almond-infused paste dances upon the taste buds. With its alluring appearance and divine flavors, this dessert creates an enchanting journey, offering a taste of Portugal and a glimpse into a realm that feels almost heavenly. Palha de Abrantes is a sublime masterpiece that captures the essence of culinary artistry and invites all who partake to experience pure bliss.